Osijek

Osijek makes a strong case for a Croatian trip with a river at its centre. The Drava gives you a line to follow; the city gives you reasons to leave it. A first visit works well as three connected chapters: the Upper Town, the riverfront and Tvrđa, the old fortified quarter.

Two city centres, different characters

Begin around Ante Starčević Square in the Upper Town. Nearby, the red-brick co-cathedral of St Peter and St Paul provides a clear landmark. Keep its slender Gothic Revival profile in mind: you will read the city differently when you return to the water.

Tvrđa lies farther east. Here, Holy Trinity Square, baroque buildings and the surviving Water Gate tell the story of a former military town. It is a neighbourhood to walk through, rather than a single castle with one entrance. Give yourself permission to step off the direct route and look into the adjoining streets.

Look up, then cross the river

On Europska avenija, look for the early twentieth-century Secession houses and the post-office building. The avenue also contains buildings in other styles, which makes comparing their façades more rewarding than applying one label to the entire street.

The pedestrian bridge offers a different kind of viewpoint. Cross the Drava to see the city from the opposite bank, then choose whether to continue along the river or return towards the centre. A bridge photograph becomes more interesting when you include the relationship between water, skyline and the route you have just walked.

For a straightforward first outing, connect the Upper Town, a stretch of promenade and Tvrđa, using Europska avenija for the return. Adapt the distance to your day and check current tram or bus information when needed. Osijek is an elongated city; a pin labelled “centre” will not put every part of it at your feet.